We once ate very much more offal than we do now. Liver, as one of the more reasonable looking of the various ‘off-falls’, has always been popular, and has usually been fried with onions or with bacon. It can be stewed too, and one such dish made with ox liver, sage and a sliced potato topping is known as Yorkshireman’s Goose…

For this dish I’ve used calf’s liver, but you could substitute lamb’s livers if you can find them. I’ve also used sage, as the Yorkshiremen did above, but have added some capers and sherry for extra flavour. Neither is native to Britain, but both have been appreciated for many centuries, sherry especially. It was Sir Francis Drake who introduced Jerez ‘sack’ to England when he appropriated several thousand barrels from Cadiz while ‘singeing the King of Spain’s beard’. The name ‘Jerez’ was gradually anglicised to ‘sherry’ (the ‘sack’ was dropped), and in the succeeding centuries, the popularity of the drink grew. Adventurers from all over Britain went to Jerez to make their fortunes, and many of the names of the great sherry houses – Harvey’s, Croft’s etc – reflect this still.

ingredients

Serves 4

4 x 1cm (1/2 in) thick slices calf’s liver, about 140-175g (5-6 oz) total weight
2 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
55g (2 oz) butter
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp midget capers (they’re tiny and expensive!)
150ml (5 fl oz) dry sherry
1 splash sherry vinegar (or lemon juice)
1 tbsp chopped fresh sage
150ml (5 fl oz) veal stock
1 tsp fécule (potato flour) or cornflour, slaked in 1 tbsp water

METHOD

Trim the liver well, cutting out any large tubes. The butcher should have removed the filmy skin. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan until very hot. Lay the liver slices in carefully, but do not over-fill the pan. Cook in two batches if necessary. When golden brown, turn over, cook quickly and take out. Put to one side, season and keep warm.

Throw away excess oil from the pan and melt half of the butter in it. Add the shallot and capers, and sauté to soften, but do not colour. Add the dry sherry and reduce by half. Add the sherry vinegar, sage, stock and the slaked fécule or cornflour. Bring up to the boil, stirring until it thickens, then add the remaining butter. Shake in until melted. Reheat the liver quickly, serve on warm plates, and pour the sauce over.

PS - I think the thickness of liver to be fried is very important, each slice no thicker than specified above, but it’s up to you. Good served with buttery mashed potato or pommes lyonnaise, sautéed potatoes and onions.